It has been a tough year in Bordeaux, and on the back of negative press surrounding the lacklustre en primeur campaign for the 2013s, much sympathy has been felt for growers this year. As July brought unseasonably cold conditions, and August brought extensive rain, it seemed like nothing could salvage 2014.
The Indian summer that saved Bordeaux
But a bright, sunny September has done just that, and far from being a salvage operation, it is starting to look like 2014 could be rather a good vintage. As the Merlot grapes are being picked, it has become apparent that they are in impeccable condition. Very little sorting has been required indicating exceptional quality, and this is a good sign for the Cabernet grapes that will remain on the vines a little longer before they are picked. In 2013, the inconsistency in quality of the grapes required an immense effort to sort them in order to achieve the precision required at this crucial point in the harvest. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild reportedly required almost 700 pickers in one day. Additionally, the quantity of grapes in 2014 is large – which is great news for growers since 2013’s harvest was relatively small. Another small harvest could have caused substantial problems in supplying the market.
Merlot… and then Cabernet
As late as mid-September, the red grapes were still being left on the vines while growers everywhere crossed their fingers that the weather wouldn’t change in order for the grapes to reach the correct level of acidity. It’s a risk of course, and if the weather changes, it could be the case that the Merlot-based wines fare better than the Cabernet-based wines, which has happened in previous years.
The rest of France
Across other parts of France a similar pattern is emerging with Champagne, the Loire Valley and Alsace set to produce more wine than last year in the North, and Beaujolais, Burgundy and Rhone also up on last year’s production. However there is some inconsistency across Burgundy’s appellations due to problematic hail storms during the season affecting some vineyards, and similarly in Languedoc-Roussillon whose production is likely to be less than last year.
There is plenty more finger-crossing to be done before 2014 can be declared a success – but it is a tribute to the exceptional skill of Bordeaux’s winemakers that it now seems very likely that some classic wines will come from this harvest when early signs suggested that it was set to be a disaster. We say, watch this space!