It has become clear that the 2015 Bordeaux is one of two things: either very good, or very, very good. These incredible wines are being sold as futures at en primeur and are rumoured to be the best vintage in a decade. What’s more is that all three Bordeaux styles are being hailed as a success – reds, dry whites and sweet whites. This is something that hasn’t happened since 2005. The three that has particularly stood out are: Pessac-Léognan, Saint-Émilion and Margaux.
Near Perfect Conditions
As with all wine, the environment is what makes or breaks a vintage, and 2015 had particularly good conditions. Like 2003, it was dry but it wasn’t extremely hot and it started raining at just the right time in most areas. Because of these perfect harvesting conditions, producers could take their time and most of the Bordeaux wines during this year turned out great. There was one area in which the rain didn’t quite come at the right time, and instead only arrived during the September harvest. Although this wasn’t catastrophic, the wines of Saint-Estèphe and from the north of Pauillac may not be as finely tweaked as they could be. Bear in mind that these wines are still verging on greatness. Unfortunately this also affects the overall score which is why you can rest assured that in reality 2015 is an even greater year than what is rumoured. Ratings aside, this year is an absolute pleasure to drink.
Does This Mean Prices are Sky High?
Just because the year is great, it doesn’t always mean that the vintage will be overpriced. Prices are only decided after the market is assessed by producers which could take days, weeks or months after wines are tasted and reviewed. It is also important to note that although all three styles are being touted as great, it doesn’t necessarily mean that the entire vintage is a success. What this means is by all means, buy some of this highly recommended fine vintage, but do it through a reputable wine broker.
A less than desirable picture was emerging from the Liv-ex 50 in November 2015, with First Growths down 40% since the market’s peak. First growths and top Sauternes have struggled slightly, together with the second wines of top Chateaux that showed so much promise in recent years. However this is not the full picture – when we look at the second, third, fourth and fifth growths, we start to see some very positive signs for the year ahead, and reminds us once again that there is much more to Bordeaux than just the First Growths.
The Telegraph recently featured a report on whether a wine ought to be decanted before being drunk. You can read the full article here, but its writer, Victoria Moore, made it clear that she isn’t particularly in favour of decanting. Nonetheless she highlights some scenarios in which a wine can benefit from this process. She’s absolutely right that decanting is a personal preference and many of us that work in the industry will have had good and bad experiences of it. Not every fine wine will necessarily benefit — and it’s quite often the wines that we might not expect that will benefit the most. If you’re unsure whether you ought to decant or not, the following pointers might help you decide:
Pour a little first
Even if your wine is relatively inexpensive, if it’s suffering from a bit of bottle stink, decanting it might be just the ticket to shift any sulphurous odours it retains. Give it a little swirl in a glass before making a decision, and if you detect bottle stink, this is a candidate for decanting. Similarly if its flavours are muted, it will probably benefit from the aeration that decanting provides. Continue reading →
When we talk about wine investment we seldom mention white wines, and least of all dry whites – it is true that dessert wines can age majestically but their dry counterparts are not known to age particularly well. This is largely due to the fact that red wines are high in tannins, which help them to age, and white wines have significantly less tannin. However there are a few exceptions among dry whites that deserve a bit of time in the cellar in order to fully reach their potential.
The best white Burgundy
The best Chardonnay in the world comes from Burgundy and while the grape is not known for wines destined for the cellar, the sheer complexity of the top white Burgundies can take a few years to emerge. The best wines from top producers will benefit from cellaring in order to become rich, deep, and complex. Continue reading →
In spite of the global popularity of Bordeaux, a wine from Burgundy has eclipsed the first growths for the second time in a row to top Sotheby’s rankings in 2014. Although wines from Bordeaux dominated the overall sales as usual, it was a lot of 114 wines from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, known as DRC, that hit the headlines with a record-breaking HK$12.5 million when it was sold in Hong Kong last year, which is equivalent to US$1.6 million.
For many of even the most avid wine collectors DRC will remain an elusive wine – Burgundy’s entire production is tiny compared to the phenomenal annual output of Bordeaux, and so it is no surprise that the wines of this legendary estate have achieved something of a legendary status. So, what’s so special about them? Continue reading →
Wine-Searcher recently reported on the exclusive Premier Napa Valley auction which is coming up in February – although not the biggest of its kind, the same event last year raised nearly $6 million (read the full article here ). It’s a great opportunity for fans of ‘cult’ Napa Cabernet Sauvignon based wines to attempt to purchase emerging superstar wines. Brands like Scarecrow and Shrader have emerged in recent years, firmly securing a place for their wines in the exclusive $1000+ per bottle club, often much more.
Big names and perfect scores
The biggest names in Napa include Screaming Eagle and Harlan Estate, and their success is largely due to perfect scores from Robert Parker. Unfortunately this remains the only way to get one’s wines into the exclusive club. Parker’s review of barrel samples of the wines and consequent evaluation as ‘candidates for a perfect score’ is what defines them as cult wines. Continue reading →
Since the turn of the new year, the wine industry has turned its attention to the well-priced and popular fizz Prosecco, and in particular a row that is ‘bubbling’ between the producers of the wine in its native Italy and those that who are selling it here in the UK. Producers are unhappy that the wine is being sold on tap in the UK’s on-trade.
A problem of definition
The problem relates to the definition of the wine – the wine that is sold in barrel and served via a tap is the same as bottled Prosecco, but according to legislation there must be a clear distinction between the two in terms of how they must be labelled and presented to the consumer. There are strict EU laws dictating how sparkling wines must be sold, and producers are angered that these are being ignored by those serving the wine on tap. By definition, the wine they are selling cannot be called Prosecco, because Prosecco must come from a bottle. Continue reading →